High Density Batteries Topic

Router, repeater (extender), GPS unit, antenna, tablet, FPV goggle, HD battery, charger, carrying case... etc.
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HackAbuse
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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by HackAbuse » 15 Feb 2013, 16:06

I would say with pretty good confidence that my 2800 gets well over 20 mins of flight. Closer to 30-35 id say. Most of my flying is done in freezing temps though, so everything stays nice n cool. To add fuel to the fire, I usually hot swap packs and put it right back into the air when the battery dies. I like to push the limits ;)

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balance charger

Post by nabisco » 16 Feb 2013, 23:42

whats a good balance charger? im using a mixture of batteries and want something better than the stock v1 charger. my new battery said maybe a hour or so to charge and it takes way longer. also i want a better charge. also would it hurt if the battery stays on the charger after it goes green? i dont mean to but sometimes it sits a lot longer than what i wanted... i cant always sit and watch it the whole time and i would use a shut off timer if the charge time was the same and i knew how long it took

thanks guys!

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Nicholi2789
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Re: balance charger

Post by Nicholi2789 » 17 Feb 2013, 02:07

nabisco wrote:whats a good balance charger? im using a mixture of batteries and want something better than the stock v1 charger. my new battery said maybe a hour or so to charge and it takes way longer. also i want a better charge. also would it hurt if the battery stays on the charger after it goes green? i dont mean to but sometimes it sits a lot longer than what i wanted... i cant always sit and watch it the whole time and i would use a shut off timer if the charge time was the same and i knew how long it took

thanks guys!

I would recommend the Turnigy Accucel 6 charger. It's only 22.99 at Hobbyking.com and is capable of charging pretty much any battery you have and balancing it. I've used mine every day the last couple weeks and haven't had a single problem. It usually takes about 45 minutes to charge and balance my 1300s at a rate of 1C. Still faster than the stock charger. The only thing is that it comes with XT60 plugs on it, so if you use batteries with stock mini Tamiya or other plugs you'll need a suitabke adaptor.
And about your stock charger, it stops feeding the battery juice as soon as it turns green. I've left mine on there all night several times and experienced no adverse effects. I would still try to avoid leaving them on there too long obviously, but if it happens once or twice I wouldn't worry about it.

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HackAbuse
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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by HackAbuse » 17 Feb 2013, 08:12

I use an iMax B6 to charge mine. I charge all my batteries at 1C, and they take approx 1hr to charge from ~%10

The B6 comes with deans connectors, and I didn't like the stiffness of the stock battery wires, so I replaced the wiring with high strand flexible 16awg and a deans connector.

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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by electron_pusher » 18 Feb 2013, 18:05

By definition, a full charge at 1C will take 1 hour. If your charger is taking more than 1 hour, it's charging slower than 1C.

If you're using aftermarket batteries, you need a good charger and safety equipment. Most aftermarket batteries do not have the protection circuit that is built in to the stock batteries. Without that circuit, you can very easily over-charge or overheat your battery and create a fire. ** See below for more detail and some video links.

For stock batteries, always use the stock charger.
For aftermarket batteries, I am now using a HiTec 4x AC http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/charge ... -plus.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; now. It's more expensive, but absolutely worth it. It is AC/DC multi-chemistry with four truly parallel balance chargers, support for thermal probe cutoffs (very important!) and USB data output.

This seems like an opportune time to plug lipo safety, so I'll step up on the soapbox for a moment.

<soapbox>
I had a small lipo fire in my house a few months ago. My lungs still hurt from the smoke and gasses. If I hadn't been in the next room, or if the smoke alarms hadn't gone off right away, the whole house would have gone up. The batteries were on a wood workbench next to a wall in the basement, not terribly far from natural gas pipes. It took maybe 1 minute from the first cell burning up until my smoke detectors alarmed and I ran down to the basement to put the fire out. In that time, set fire to the workbench, and worked it's way up the wires to the charger, setting several nearby small plastic items on fire on it's way.

It's easy to be overconfident with LiPos. Most batteries are so common and completely safe that we are de-sensitized. The batteries and chargers aren't normally distributed with sufficient literature about the hazards. The warnings look no different than you'd see on any electric product, so it's easy to dismiss - don't! These are not the safe rechargeable batteries you can buy at the corner store.

Educate yourself on the principles of LiPo batteries and chargers. If you don't understand it, don't use it.

If a battery appears to be physically damaged in any way, do not charge it. Dispose of it properly.
The thermal cutoff is critical. This is one of the best ways to prevent a fire.
Fast charging (rates > 1C) increases risk, it's not recommended.
Your charger should also have battery check features to ensure that your input matches your battery. If you use the wrong settings, you will likely have a fire. The battery checks aren't perfect, though, you need to be careful.
A total charge or total time cutoff is also an important feature. This can prevent extreme overcharge in cases where the charger cannot correctly read the true charge in the battery.
Always charge in a fire proof bag like LipoSafe, away from walls and flammable materials (outside on concrete, or in a bunker is best). Trust me, you do NOT want a lipo fire in your house.
Have a bucket of sand and a fire extinguisher on hand.

Now the video links:
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... ttery+fire" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... fire+water" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

** Until all the cells burn out, you have class D metal fire that cannot be put out with a standard fire extinguisher. Class D fire extinguishers are hard to find. I haven't found one yet. A lipo fire generates it's own oxygen so it can't be completely smothered. Do not try to put out a lipo fire with water!! Water will make a lithium fire worse, and possibly create an explosion. Always be physically present when you charge - don't leave the room. If the battery starts to 'puff' or get too hot, stop charging immediately and move the batteries someplace safe outside. The individual cells burn up and vent separately, and it may be minutes between each one. When the cells vent, they release nasty gasses. These are both toxic and extremely corrosive. It can cause steel to rust very quickly.

Even with a lipo charging bag, or a bunker the fire will travel up the wires and spread. Some folks have constructed elaborate bunkers using cinder blocks and thin plastic bags full of sand that will melt and dump sand if a fire starts. This is a great setup, but you're still best off outside where there is no house to burn.

Once the wires burn up, you may have exposed live electrical wires from partially burnt batteries and your charger or power source. This can cause a secondary class C electrical fire.

Once the 'metal' fire burns out, you'll have a normal class A or C fire. a 'normal' A/B/C fire extinguisher will help at that point.

Most lipo fires occur during charging or discharge, but they can happen in storage (albeit rarely). Long term (week+) storage should be done at storage voltages. Most good chargers have a storage mode feature to put the battery at storage voltage. I store mine in lipo safe bags inside a small fire safe, which is in turn inside a FM certified steel container for flammable materials (a JustRite can https://www.google.com/search?q=justrite+oily+rag+cans" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).

Paranoid? No. I've dealt with a lipo fire in my house and prefer to keep my family alive. I've even considered building a custom venting system for the fire containment can, with a fan to blow the gasses and smoke outside through a vent. If I lived in a more temperate climate, I would store everything outside.

</soapbox>

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Nicholi2789
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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by Nicholi2789 » 18 Feb 2013, 18:41

Thanks for the great info Electron_pusher.
I'm pretty new to Lipos as I never used them when I flew nitro. I've read the stories and user accounts of fires though and am not too keen on finding out about it. That's why I charge inside a metal toolbox (got the idea from Garrock) and never at a rate over 1C. I'm just not in that much of a hurry. Even though my nanotechs are rated to charge at 10C I'm not really interested in finding out. Besides my puny Accucel 6 can't push that many amps. In any event, I think as long as you take the necessary precautions tour chances of having a fire occur are very slim. I honestly think they should put an age restriction on these things though. It's too easy to do it wrong. That's why I read pages and pages of info and watched countless videos before ever attempting my first charge cycle.

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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by pbody2013 » 18 Feb 2013, 19:16

Thanks for the info!
"It seems to be flying alright, but it's making a funny noise"

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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by Bacha » 03 Mar 2013, 09:06

Need some advice on some things here...

1. Should i change drone connector to XT60 or change all the connectors on my battery to the Tamiya one?
will be mostly using the none stock battery's, Zippy compact line

2. Looking for a neat and light wight way to connect 2 devices that will need 6-15v power.

back to work, see u in a bit

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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by Nicholi2789 » 03 Mar 2013, 09:23

Personally I wouldn't change the connector on the drone, i would just convert all my batteries to mini tamiya. I would rather s
do the extra work of changing every new battery connecter than modify the connectors on the drone. That's just me though. If it's easier for you to just change just the Drone connector then do it. Just remember, not all batteries use an XT60. I just bought a bunch of tamiya plugs and put one on every new battery I get. That's easiest for me.

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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by Bacha » 03 Mar 2013, 09:42

thx for the reply :)

mewanttofly
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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by mewanttofly » 03 Mar 2013, 20:21

What is the most powerful battery designed for the drone 2.0 without modification as of today?March 3rd. 2013.

Bacha
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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by Bacha » 03 Mar 2013, 21:21

http://www.i-drone.me/index.php?option= ... uct_id=177" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

will fit in same slot and use drone charger

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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by Rich146 » 03 Mar 2013, 21:28

Hey guys . If you need new original 1000mah Drone 2 batteries then this is the cheapest I've found

http://www.creativegadgets.com/toys-gam ... ttery-p327" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've bought a load of these

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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by mewanttofly » 03 Mar 2013, 21:43

Bacha wrote:http://www.i-drone.me/index.php?option= ... uct_id=177" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

will fit in same slot and use drone charger
Thanks. Amazon has it for $49 . The only customer review said it taks 2.5 hr to charge and because is much heavier exceeding the limit of the drone's battery designed weight. Which is confusing since is a parrot product?
The reviewer suggested instead to get : Bastens 1300 mAh LiPo battery and charger upgrade for the Parrot AR.Drone 2.0 & 1.0 - a high capacity alternative replacement battery with a fast charger - 15 to 20 minute flight time and roughly 40 min charge time Amazon sells it for $105.95

Any thoughts? Double the price. I wonder if anyone out there has the AR Drone 2.0 2000mAh Battery and can comment on its performance as advertized. THANKS!!

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Re: The Batteries Topic

Post by ScubaSteve » 03 Mar 2013, 21:44

You asked for the most powerful battery without modification, thats pretty much it, you cannot have a powerful battery without weight gain.

The bastens battery is 1300mah so not the most powerful however it will be lighter
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