Thanks for the info! 1 of my wheels indeed as these holes filled with solder but i can desolder it so no problemsgarrock wrote:
3nslav3 and Daza .... IMPORTANT... About the Wheel Antenna:
- Keep the two tiny via holes in the ground ring of the Wheel Antenna clear and free of any solder.
Those two tiny via holes act as a tuning capacitor at 2.4gHz to optimize the SWR.
I also managed to say goodbye to the error rates!
placing a high powered antenna inside the drone is asking for trouble!
since I've been using the mast system most of my link quality errors went away! (even at close range and using the boosted phone + boosted drone)
foam, carbon, electronics in the drone all absorb the 2.4 Ghz band, the more TX power, the worse the link quality took me some time to figure out but now I know why the mast works 10 times better then just installing an internal antenna, this also counts for the RC guys with 2.4Ghz FPS systems... put the antena as far away as possible from electricity conducting materials (anything that heats up, reacts in a microwave oven)
link quality test in my garden (Highly populated wifi enviroment):
samsung GS3 + 500mW booster with inductive pickup antenna + 3dB TX antenna
Drone with 3dB antenna + 500mW booster
Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/v/QTJH0S-lGzQ
the weird image is caused by the IR lens, the drone was all over the place due to the 20MPH winds
next thing that I'll be working on is a wheel mast system
just waiting for a new batch of RG178 cable to arrive (should be here within a few days)
some weight info on my antenna's:
3dB + SMA: 4,5 grams
5-7dB + SMA: 14 grams
as soon the wind calms down I'll be trying to break the 200 meter barrier